CHINCHILLA HUSBANDRY

Chinchillas are small mammals originating from the High Andes in South America, and are now rare in the wild. They are relatively hardy, easy to manage and rarely bite once they are accustomed to being handled.

ENVIRONMENT

In the wild chinchillas normally live at an altitude of 4,500m and therefore, in captivity, they do best at ambient temperatures below 25 degrees C. **Note that they become very distressed if subjected to temperatures above 25 degrees C.**. A dry, well-lit and well-ventilated room or outbuilding is most suitable. Avoid a very dry atmosphere, such as that which occurs with some types of central heating, as this can cause heavy fur loss and may predispose to respiratory illnesses.

Chinchillas are very active, and need as much space as possible - at least 2 metres by 1 metre x 45cm high for a group of two, and the absolute minimum of 60cm by 45cm by 45cm for a single animal. Note that chinchillas do gnaw wood, and will easily destroy flimsy wooden cages. Treated wood should therefore be avoided. A wooden nest box measuring 25cm by 20cm by 20cm should be provided for each individual, if a group is being kept. This can be metal-lined if chewing becomes a problem. Cleanliness of the housing is important, we recommend cleaning as necessary (usually twice a week) with Vetark Ark-Klens.

-Chinchillas need rocks on which to climb, and branches on which to climb and gnaw. The latter must be cut from trees and bushes which are not poisonous. Generally speaking, if the fruit of the tree can be safely eaten by man or animals, no part of the tree is poisonous and their twigs and branches can be safely fed to rodents. Important exceptions to this rule include flowering cherry and currant, but apple, pear, hawthorn and whitethorn can all be fed with impunity. Some breeders offer pieces of Celcon blocks or pumice stones instead. You can offer both if you like. Do not allow your chinchilla to chew on treated or painted wood.

"Chinchilla sand" must be provided for daily dust bathing - this is essential to keep the fur clean and in good condition. Be careful that this is very fine (volcanic ash or silver sand mixed with Fuller's Earth are best). Builder's (river) sand is too course and damages the fur.

FEEDING

It is especially important to avoid sudden changes in diet, especially if these changes involve large quantities of hay or a new brand of pellets. Avoid excessive amounts of any one food, especially nuts, raisins, seeds or carrots. The following may be included in Chinchilla diets:-

1. Chinchilla pellets: good quality, approx 20g per animal per day as a basis. Do not change brands unless unavoidable, as to do so leads to unnecessary stress. If pellets are NOT fed it is advisable to add Vetark SAVits to the drinking water or for breeding animals Vetark ARKVITS lightly sprinkled on food..

2. Hay: good quality, dust-free, meadow clover or, preferably, timothy hay, provided ad lib but in small quantities at a time to prevent trampling or soiling.

3. Dried fruit and nuts, including raisins (two pieces of one of these per animal per day is ample).

4. A few (i.e. 3 to 4) sunflower seeds should be given twice weekly.

5. Well-washed green vegetable or dandelion leaves, one matchstick size piece of carrot twice weekly, one sixteenth of a sweet apple once or twice weekly, a small amount of cut grass (i.e. cut wild grass not lawn cuttings).

6. A small block of rock salt, to replace the very high mineral content normally found in Andes soil. Pumice stone or Celcon block to gnaw on.

7. Wood and twigs to gnaw. Fruit trees are best e.g. pear, apple. Ensure that none of the wood has been treated with chemicals. See above.

8. WATER - automatic dispensers work well. Change the water once or twice daily.

HANDLING

Be gentle yet firm, providing enough support so that the chinchilla always feels secure. Grasp the animal by the base of the tail with one hand, and support the body around the chest (from on top) with your other hand. If the animal is particularly active, or bites, restrain the tail with one hand and have a firm hold around the neck and forelegs with the other. Soft leather gloves can be an advantage, not only to protect fingers, but to reduce the possibility of pulling tufts of hair out accidentally.

AILMENTS

By and large, chinchillas are hardy, healthy pets but they are prone to disorders of the fur. Many of these are to do with dietary deficiencies and can be prevented by the supply of adequate amounts of fibrous foods as detailed above. Colic (belly ache) and other digestive disturbances (eg diarrhoea) are also often due to inadequate feeding and are recognised by observing signs of pain which indicate the need for urgent veterinary attention. Diarrhoea is potentially very serious, this is likely to require veterinary treatment but as part of this treatment Vetark ProC or Avipro Plus are extremely useful. These are very useful 'supports' whenever chinchillas are taken to shows or brought home.

Respiratory diseases are also observed (pneumonia can occur if the animal is kept at too high a temperature). Dental disorders stop the animal eating and make them slobber badly. These last mentioned conditions also require veterinary attention. The role of calcium and vitamin D in dental conditions of chinchillas is not yet clarified but they should be looked at as potential areas of concern.

Rabbit Welfare Fund