DIAGNOSTIC APPROACH TO FEATHER PICKING

A typical veterinary workup may include

• Give the bird a full clinical examination
• Check birds skin for parasites
• Biochemistry looking especially for indications of hepatopathy
• Haematology, serology as appropriate
• Check faecal sample for parasites as appropriate - Giardia is a big cause of picking in cockatiels
• PCR tests for PBFD / Polyomavirus - not actually chewers but can look similar, also PCR faeces for Chlamydiosis
• Feather follicle cytology - should be sterile
• Biopsy

A number of infectious causes may be considered:

• bacterial / fungal dermatitis / folliculitis
• PBFD
• allergy
• endocrine disorders
• neoplasia

Then... Discuss the diet

Correct it as appropriate, seed is completely unbalanced in most cases. Balance seed with soaked/spouted pulses, introduce fruit and vegetables - grated is often more palateable and less threatening/abnormal in appearance. Use supplements, it is impossible to provide the variety available in nature.

Complete diets are available and may be better than some made diets, compensation for lack of non-nutritional stimulation of a natural diet may be necessary.

Treatment will be based on the diagnosis reached but may include:

• specific treatment of infections - antiparasiticides, antibiotics
• behavioural modification
• anxiolytics
• Patience - some birds may take 2 years to moult damaged feathers, few will look better quickly.
• At worst PBFD or Polyomavirus may warrant euthanasia.

BEHAVIOURAL MODIFICATION FOR FEATHER PICKER'S

Provide the largest cage that the room and wallet will accomodate, this allows room to move and also allows you to create different areas.

Move the cage around, presenting a different view from time to time, presenting a busy view when the bird is to be left stimulates a curious bird. The majority of birds benefit from being part of the family. Most parrots are social birds and do not enjoy isolation.

Allow a good rest period, many birds require the cage to be covered at night, this helps establish a routine. At least 12 hours dark is important, for birds which are seriously plucking starting out with 16 hours dark is useful then gradually extending the daylight to a 12/12 regime.

Spray the bird regularly, a fine mist from small house plant spray is ideal, birds will spend time cleaning and drying feathers rather than pulling them out. This simulates the regular natural rainfall which most parrots are exposed to in the wild.

Spend more time with the bird, talk to it more often, eat with it and give it food/tidbits, take it from room to room.

Leave a radio, tape, or TV on when you are out. Some birds will chatter away, dance, or generally be stimulated.

Create a theme park in the cage, acrylic toys, hide, fruit tree (eg apple) branches from the garden, swings, bells etc all provide recreation. Some birds are used to spending all day foraging for food, to have all meals provided ad lib inside a small cage is extremely boring and leaves a lot of free time for vices.

Provide 'nibbles' such as carrots, broccoli and other vegetables. Small pine nuts given as a tidbit are good, birds spend ages trying to open them.

Consider a training program, there are good videos available to help and in some countries specialists who can advise you.

Review the diet and ensure that you provide a balanced diet which encourages healthy feather growth, old unmoulted feathers in a poor skin are itchy and encourage feather pecking. Sometimes increasing the protein level will induce a moult. Use appropriate supplements such as ACE-High or AVIMIX (Vetark).